Mansions and Churches

For the last of my self-guided tours of historical Chennai, I chose mansions and churches in May (2008--I know I'm late in posting this, but not THAT late). In any city, the houses of the (currently or formerly) rich and famous, and the stories of their influence on a city or community, breathe life into otherwise dry series of dates and facts. Even without an intense interest in the details, the architecture often speaks for itself, announcing that once there was grandeur and style, sophistication and pride, in this place (Pictures here).

We started at what was once Brodie Castle, now housing a state-sponsored college of music. The building itself was solid, even if a little rundown, and the outer verandas and rooftop provided a great view of the Adyar River, and the lush grounds of the Theosophical Society across the murky waters.

Just downriver from the Brodie Castle toward the sea stands Chettinad Palace, also on the banks of the Adyar. To my surprise, the mansion is still an active household, with a first-floor wood-paneled receiving room for public visitors (we were there alone) decorated with photos of prime ministers and dignitaries from M.A. Muthiah Chettiar's lifetime of public service in Chennai and beyond, as well as a staggering collection of trophies and prize cups from equestrian pursuits.

The only lead for finding the next stop on our tour of Chennai's fine old garden homes was a name on the map, Leith Street. Winding our way through more modern homes, all with titles playing on the name of the main house (Leith Manor, Leith Retreat, Leith House, etc.), we eventually spotted the original house, tucked into the center of this neighborhood, which once was simply the surrounding gardens. The house is a private residence, not intended for public visitors, but they were kind enough to show some historical tourists like us the veranda and rooftop. An example of how inactivity can be a blessing, the residence has had no major renovations in recent years, leaving much of the original moldings, wide veranda, and stonework intact. The rooftop is an amazing terrace, though the surrounding apartment buildings now block what was once a 180-degree-view of the entire beach and bay.

Lushington House, in a side street off of Mount Road near the Teachers College in Saidapet, is the saddest example of a formerly grand house, now succumbing completely to the encroachment of Chennai's crammed housing standard. The place looked like a fort, complete with a surrounding wall, locked when we visited.

As the day began to swelter, we stopped by two of Chennai's oldest churches, Luz Church, built in the 16th Century C.E. by Protuguese sailors in thanks for a mysterious light which guided them to safety--however, an inscription in the church gives the credit to some Franciscan monks. The church is modest in size, but has thankfully maintained its spacious grounds, and peaking through the windows, we could feel the cool air maintained by the extremely thick plastered walls.

Another church built by the Portuguese in the same time period is located on St. Mary's Road, but referred to as Descanco Church. The congregation now has several modern buildings for worship and education, and once included a giant pink and powder-blue image of the Virgin Mary, buoyed by a massive papier-mache lotus blossom (no longer on display, as of May 2008). The original structure, now used as a shrine/chapel, still preserves several Portuguese gravestones in the floor.


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When I took this tour, I didn't know that this would be my last city tour of Chennai (for awhile--the last is never the last). As I review the maps and photos, I realize that I was just starting to scratch the surface of Chennai's stories. I mean, it's now a city of 7 million or so; most of the history I've been gawking at is pre-Independence, and there have been several economic spurts, urban developments, mass migration from rural areas, a tsunami, and millions of stories to accompany each of them.